How to read a surf forecast in 3 steps
Are you planning a surf trip and you want to check the surf forecast but you have no idea how to start?
We all have been there! With these easy tips you will learn how to read the forecast and have an idea of how the waves will be breaking.
BEFORE STARTING
Before of all you should chose a forecast website and we highly recommend to use the same for a while. As much as you use it your prediction will be more accurate. You need to get some experience and be able to compare with past days or other surf spots. There are different websites like: magic seaweed, surf line, surf-forecast, wind guru… It is also a good idea to chose two of them and compare the forecast to get a better result.
1.FIRST STEP: Check the Swell
This is the first thing you will check on a forecast. The swell is divided by two factors: wave height and wave period.
The wave height is measured by meters or foot and will indicate the power of the ocean. Normally from 0-0,8 meters is flat. From 0,8 to 1,5 its small. From 1,5-1,8 m means medium. And from 2 meters above means big. But HOLD ON! This is not the only factor. The combination with the wave period will determinate the actual swell.
The wave period is measured by seconds. And it is related with the time the waves get formed. A period under 10 seconds mean waves are going to be pretty bad. If you get this small period with small height might be flat. If you get this small period with big swell means the ocean might be messy and you could only surf protected corners. A wave period between 10 to 15 is a nice period and you will be able to trust the wave height itself to have an idea about the sixe of the waves. When the wave period is over 15 means there is some swell and even when the wave height is small you could get some surf at beach breaks or swell magnetic beaches. If there is big period combined with big height watch out! Its going to be huge!
2. SECOND STEP: Check the wind
Another important thing to considerate before going surfing is the wind. Here we have to consider two factors. The speed and the direction.
-Wind Speed: In Europe we use kph to measure this one. Bear in ming that wind under 9 kph is light. Between 10 and 15 kph is medium and over 15 kph starts to get a bit windy. But wait!! Windy doesn’t mean it´s bad. It really depends on wind direction.
-Wind Direction
Onshore: Same direction as the waves., wind goes against the shore. This wind is pretty bad and even if you have a light wind under 9kph conditions can get pretty choppy.
Cross shore: Wind is parallel to the beach. Waves will not be perfect but may work with a light to medium wind.
Offshore: Best wind ever! With this wind you can get epic waves even when the wind is strong.
If you want to know how the wind is going to affect the beach you are going just take a map and see the orientation of the beach. (For example north face beach) If the wind is blowing against the beach (south wind) you know wind will be offshore. Easy!!
3. THIRD STEP: The tide
This is another thing you should check. Find the best tide in the beach description of your forecast website and try to go on the right time. Each beach is different but they always indicate it on the website.
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